Cliche Pun on Book Title

January 16th 2012

cardamom hill

This is the latest hot restaurant opening in Atlanta. Chef Asha Gomez turned her Spice Route supper club into a restaurant focusing on South Indian cuisine. It’s located in a stip mall off of Northside Drive, but she’s made the interior feel much more luxe. It smells like an upscale spa when you walk in to Cardamom Hill, and the hostess is extremely soft-spoken. The message is clear: relax and enjoy.

We visited within a week of opening day, and the restaurant clearly has some kinks to work out. The point of sales system was on the fritz, so it was cash or check only. Their liquor license hasn’t come through yet, so it was BYOB. The bloggers and critics are split on this issue: half are focusing on the food and ignoring the hiccups, while the other half are calling foul for opening the restaurant before it’s ready.

The cash only aspect is a bit annoying, but we actually like BYOB, so it worked out fine. Also, the hostess called ahead to notify us of the issues, so we were prepared.

On to the food:

For an appetizer, we chose pork vindaloo. It came with this excellent spongy bread that was crispy around the edges and soft in the middle. The pork was well-spiced and accented with bright hits of veggies.

I ordered the veggie plate for my main dish, eager to try a couple different plates. Clockwise, from top left, this featured vegetable pilau, sweet potato verka, an Indian soup, and beet pachadi. The sweet potatoes reminded me of a healthier version of a french fry. The beets had a dollop of yogurt sandwiched between the layers. Chef Gomez carefully layers spices in her dishes to create complex flavors that seem to unfold further with each bite.

This was the reason for our visit. Kerala Fried Chicken. The new KFC. Spicy, crunchy, moist chicken goodness. I feel bad for the chef, because this dish is clearly such an all-star that the other menu items will likely get ignored by 80% of diners. As we scanned the menu, we promised we’d come back to try some of the other dishes, but I can’t help thinking that when I return I’m going to be unable to resist this chicken.

Overall, the restaurant clearly has some work to do on the service side. But the food is on point, and really, that’s the most important thing. Considering this place is about a ten minute drive away, I can easily see myself returning whenever I get a craving for Indian food.

Posted at 10:13am and tagged with: cardamom hill, indian, atlanta, asha gomez, one column,.

October 19th 2011

bootleg beer dinner at the porter

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This past weekend I went to a beer dinner at The Porter. The theme of the beer dinner was “bootleg beer” which meant The Porter was serving beer that isn’t distributed in GA. The Menu:

Starter Beer: 2nd Self Beta Red

Amuse Bouche: Salmon Tartare (Skull Coast Scallywag Pale Ale)

Sweet Potato Soup (Short’s Humalupalicious, Strawberry Short Cake, Black Substanace)

Grilled Hanger Steak (Caldera IPA)

Chocolate Fondant (Cascade Kriek)

I didn’t know exactly what to expect with this dinner. I love going to the Porter, and I’ve been consistently impressed with their specials, but I wasn’t sure how they’d handle a prix-fixe menu. No need to worry- it was professional. We couldn’t believe that we were enjoying a meal of this quality at our favorite beer bar. For example- the amuse (above) had passion fruit, pink pepper and fried garlic in the tartare. The fried garlic gave it a nice crunch. It was a fun, bright start to the meal. We also got bread and butter- but not just any bread- the Sweetwater bread.

This soup was probably my favorite course of the evening. Uber-flavorful. And I could *literally* eat pounds of the pecan bacon brittle sprinkled in the soup. Also- I thought the beer pairings for this course (three different Short’s beers) made the most sense.

(The Short’s beers)

My one complaint of the evening was that the portions (both food and beer) were too large. When doing a tasting menu, typically restaurants will scale down the portions. Here, you can see the full serving of steak, pile of fries, bone marrow and bernaise sauce (foamed across the bottom of the plate). This was a super-rich course (oh, you don’t say, bone marrow and bernaise sauce are rich?).

By the time we got to dessert, we were all exhausted. And not necessarily in a good way. Though- to his credit- our waiter did a great job pacing our courses. (Neal or Nealan…not sure which) had the perfect demeanor. He gave us helpful tidbits about the beer and food, but didn’t hang on our table lecturing us about each element.

So, the dessert- fondant with brandied cherries, white chocolate mousse and chocolate sorbet- was actually not overpoweringly rich. I especially liked the brandied cherries with the kriek (a sour beer). I’m not normally a fan of sour beers, but this one might change my mind.

Overall it was a great evening. I just wish I hadn’t left feeling like I was about to birth a food baby. I would definitely recommend attending a beer dinner at The Porter, and I’ll probably be at the next one!

Posted at 8:59am and tagged with: the porter, beer dinner, atlanta,.

July 25th 2011

leroy’s fried chicken

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First thought: a take-out fried chicken spot in my neighborhood is going to be dangerous.

Yes it is. LeRoy’s Fried Chicken (note- Chef Julia LeRoy, no one named Leroy is involved) opened recently on Howell Mill Road. The Westside has been positively blowing up recently, and the hits just keep on coming. So far I’ve read mostly negative press on this place (but that’s Yelp for you…). Alex and I decided to give it a try this past weekend.

It’s easy to miss on Howell Mill, sandwiched between La Fonda and a law firm. In fact, the restaurant is a partnership between LeRoy and the owners of La Fonda. Tip: you can park in the La Fonda lot if the LeRoy’s lot is full. We came in on a Saturday afternoon and parked right out front.

(image from foodiebuddha)

Order your chicken at the window (a chicken liver sandwich and fried chicken salad are also available), pick some sides, a drink maybe, and wait for the deliciousness to be delivered to you. It takes about 8-9 minutes to get your chicken, as the organic Springer Mountain birds are fried to order, in lard, naturally.

We got a four-piece order, two sides and a biscuit for two people. It was too much food. I’d recommend about a piece and a half per person, considering the chicken pieces are huge, juicy and piping hot. I was honestly blown away at the quality of the chicken. The breading is thick, and prone to slide off the chicken. I found it to be perfectly spiced, enough to give it a bite, but not burning your tongue. The portions on the sides are also incredibly generous. We got a tangy pile of cole slaw and some smoky collards. I’d skip the biscuit, unless you’re a fan of the doughy, dense variety of biscuit. I tend to prefer mine more flaky and fluffy.

Was it the best fried chicken I’ve ever had? No. But it’s a take-out spot about a mile from my house with delicious food. It’s definitely going on my list of faves.

LeRoy’s Fried Chicken (no website), 1021 Howell Mill Rd, Atlanta, GA 30318

Posted at 6:05pm and tagged with: leroy's fried chicken, atlanta, food, westside, julia leroy,.

June 5th 2011

hankook taqueria

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One of my favorite parts of moving to my new neighborhood has been discovering my new local restaurants. Possibly the best one so far has been Hankook Taqueria. It’s been open for a little over two years now, and they specialize in Korean-style tacos. To the best of my knowledge, the Korean taco trend started in LA with food trucks. Hankook has a food truck here in Atlanta, the Yumbii truck.

So what is a Korean taco? Basically, Korean BBQ meats and lightly fried meats in a soft taco shell with lettuce, cheese, and a special Korean BBQ sauce. The menu is small, just a few tacos, with a nightly special, burritos, and “street snacks.” Stand in line, order your tacos, and take a seat in the unassuming dining room. This place is bare bones, but that makes it feel special, like a secret you’ve discovered.

It’s BYOB with no charge- so bring a six pack to share. I would recommend 2-3 tacos per person and then sharing some of the street snacks around the table. My favorite taco so far was a special- the crispy pork, but they’re all good, and at $2.25 a piece, you can afford to try them all. People rave about the sesame fries, but I found the Ko-Kuma (tempura friend Korean sweet potatoes) to be much better.

(sorry- I ate most of mine before I remembered a picture).

Honestly, I’ve been back once a week since I moved in. I can’t get enough of this place. Taqueria Del Sol will always have a place in my heart, but this is my new go-to spot. It’s cheaper, BYOB, more interesting, and frankly- better.

Hankook Taqueria

http://www.hankooktaqueria.com/index.html

1341 Collier Road

Atlanta, GA

Mondays 11-4pm, Tues-Sat 11-9pm.

Posted at 3:25pm and tagged with: atlanta, collier hills, hankook taqueria, two column,.

February 4th 2011

krog bar

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It’s been around forever, and somehow I had never stopped in. Krog Bar is tucked away in the same complex as Rathbun’s, and is owned by the same people. It’s a small space, but I liked that it felt like a secret. It wasn’t very crowded on a Tuesday night, so I had no problem getting a table. About half the space is a patio, so if the weather’s bad, it might be tough to get a spot. On the other hand, when the weather turns nice, I’d love to camp out here on the patio for an evening.

Fun wine list where I didn’t recognize a single bottle. They offer everything by the glass, so it’s easy to try a couple different wines. The menu is entirely small plates and I’d recommend just ordering a few things and sharing. I especially liked the flatbread and the charcuterie plate.

Good spot for: parents in town or night out with friends.

Note: they don’t take reservations.

Posted at 2:28pm and tagged with: krog bar, atlanta, inman park, rathbun, one column,.

January 27th 2011

local three

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I thought I was kind of over the “upscale southern” food trend. But then I went to Local Three. Housed in the former Joel space, the owners have completely transformed the restaurant from a hall of European elegance to a modern barn with velvet Elvis portraits on the walls. The place is a bit hard to find, but was packed when I visited on a recent Friday night.

The thing that struck me the most was our server. She was upbeat, friendly, and helpful. It’s sad that this is so rare that it’s worth commenting on, but she was truly a delight and made our meal that much better.

After perusing their beverage list, I decided to start with an Old Fashioned. The amount of Bourbon they offer (at least 30 bottles, including Pappy Van Winkle) was a good signal that they take their cocktails seriously.

We also ordered one of our favorite bottles of wine, Quivira Sauvignon Blanc. Local Three has a well-curated wine list with some hard-to-find bottles.

We started with the crispy brussel sprouts and the chicken liver pate. Both were excellent. The sprouts were roasted, I think in duck fat, which gave them a rich flavor and a nice texture as well. This was one of the best versions of chicken liver pate that I’ve ever had, mainly due to the house-made marmalade spread on top of the liver. Yum! Apparently they change up which fruit they use fairly often.

(Also note the adorable vintage salt & pepper, they had a different set on each table)

We also had a perfectly nice salad of winter greens. But the standout of the night had to be our North Carolina Flounder with linguine, shaved garlic and lobster butter. The fish was perfectly cooked and lightly breaded. The linguine with lobster butter was one of the better pasta dishes I’ve had at a restaurant. Silky pasta lightly coated in a super rich sauce…I’m salivating just thinking about it. The restaurant was kind enough to split our dishes onto two plates without making a fuss or including an extra charge.

I want to go back and try the Chicken Pot Pie- it’s been getting a lot of buzz as one of the best versions in town. They also have a great cheese plate and a charcuterie plate playfully called the Notorious P.I.G. If you come in for brunch, $18 gets you a pass into the famous $1 Million dollar kitchen for an all-you-can-eat buffet. The placemat is a map of the kitchen.

Considering everything up until this point was great, we opted to have dessert. We chose the chocolate pudding cake with Captain Crunch ice cream and salted caramel.

A perfect end to a nearly perfect meal. Local Three has earned itself a spot on my “favorites” list.

Our meal total came to about $80, but at least half of it was alcohol. Appetizers run from $3-11 and mains are between $10-25. They also appear to have a nice private room for a special occasion. I’m considering it as an option for a graduation dinner :)

Posted at 10:16am and tagged with: local three, atlanta, buckhead, one column,.

January 16th 2011

fox bros bbq

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This is another review which is completely unnecessary. Fox Bros is an Atlanta institution, and my opinion is just a drop in the bucket. This is, however, hands down the best BBQ I’ve had in Atlanta. (Sorry Community Q, you’ve been bumped).

No pretense here, it’s an old-school BBQ joint, complete with a smoke shack out front. The casual vibe and extensive menu of bbq classics (ribs, brisket) along side crazy experiments makes for a damn good time. I wasn’t adventurous (or crazy enough) to try the Tomminator (it involves tater tots and chili), but I did have some of the specials on the night I went in.

We had a combo plate with (L to R) burnt ends, country-fried ribs, and beef tenderloin. (corn bread and collards in back). The burnt ends and fried ribs blew my mind. Insanely tender meat with a great flavor. I would definitely recommend both.

Also- the collards. Jesus. These were the best I’ve had in Atlanta. Not a trace of bitterness, and properly cooked with pieces of bacon mixed in.

After one visit, I’m dying to go back. And I can’t wait for the Fox brothers to open their Tex Mex place in Decatur (off Ponce, in the old Natalie’s Fish Market spot).

Posted at 5:50pm and tagged with: fox bros, bbq, atlanta, one column,.

December 31st 2010

sister louisa’s church of the living room and ping pong emporium

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If you were to actually design a bar calculated to appeal to hipsters, this might be it. Sister Louisa’s Church of the Living Room and Ping Pong Emporium is the newest bar in the Old 4th Ward (Edgewood/Boulevard intersection). They took over the Danneman’s Coffee space (RIP) and have completely transformed it.

The bar is downstairs, along with old high school chemistry tables and kitschy folk art by owner/artist Grant Henry. Every surface is covered in modified religious artifacts or other thrift-store flotsam like the bowling trophies from the 70s. The lighting is dark and red and the drinks are cheap. Sweetwater 420 pints for $3 and when you ask for whiskey on the rocks, you get a full glass.

Upstairs there is an actual ping pong table, along with various tables and couches for relaxing with a drink. We got there fairly early on a Wednesday night (around 10) and scored an elementary school cafeteria table. The bar has lots of seating, a good amount of space, cheap drinks, funky decor, an erratic juke box selection, ping pong…aka hipster crack. Apparently they have plans to offer church organ karaoke in the near future. Like, are you even serious right now?

Posted at 3:18pm and tagged with: O4W, atlanta, bars, sister louisa's, one column,.

December 31st 2010

miso izakaya

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This place has been lingering on my “to try” list for quite some time. It initially opened to mediocre reviews, but lately reports have been coming in that the chef is killing it. This past week I decided to finally pay a visit.

Miso Izakaya is located in the strip of new restaurants and bars along Edgewood/Boulevard. The area is definitely not gentrified yet, and the only complaint I could lodge is that it’s overrun with hipsters. But I prefer the hipsters to the Buckhead set.

The dining room is gorgeous, all dark wood and soft lighting:

An izakaya is a Japanese version of a brewpub. Lots of drinking and tons of small plates to nibble on and share. Miso brings it in a major way with a nice selection of alcohol (including the most comprehensive Japanese beer list I’ve seen in Atlanta) and a selection of delicious dishes for $4-9. I tried two Hitachino beers I had never had before: their classic (an IPA) and their XH (aged in sake casks- super good!).

The “buns” section of the menu contains the must-order dishes. The bun with pork belly (pictured) and the crispy duck bun were the best of the bunch.

We also had great luck ordering the tonkatsu (a pork dish, hammered thin and breaded in panko) and the salt and pepper quail (very tender and well-seasoned, we picked it up and nibbled around the tiny bones). I did my research ahead of time online and was rewarded when a waitress told me our table had ordered all of the best dishes in the restaurant.

My only complaint of the evening was the service. It was a Wednesday night around 7:30, yet they only had two servers working. It took 30-40 minutes to get our first orders (one of which was sushi!) and when our food came it took another 5 minutes to even get some silverware. I’m hoping this was a fluke, because the food was amazing and I want to seriously love this place. I will definitely be performing a re-visit. Now who’s with me?

Good for: EVERYONE! This would be a great date spot, or a good place to take a big group. I can’t imagine anyone not liking this place.

(images from Spoonfed Atlanta and Creative Loafing)

Posted at 3:01pm and tagged with: O4W, atlanta, miso izakaya, one column,.

December 19th 2010

bagel palace

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I went to Bagel Palace this morning and had perhaps the best bagel I’ve had in Atlanta, certainly the best one I’ve had in the Emory area. It’s an old-school bagel shop that’s also a deli/bakery. They had an amazing assortment of Christmas cookies and other baked goods- I’ll definitely have to stop back in and pick some up soon. There are a couple of tables where you can sit and eat, but most of their business appears to be take-out. They do make their own bagels on-site, and they boil them (which, for the unaware, is the proper/authentic way to make bagels).

They had about 10-15 different types of bagels, but mostly the classic flavors: egg, salt, garlic, sesame, etc. I had an everything bagel, toasted, with jalapeno cream cheese. The bagel was awesome- crunchy crust and chewy center. It didn’t have that bread-like texture that grocery store bagels often have.

(sorry for the mid-bite pic, but isn’t that a nice jalapeno slice?)

The cream cheese was the real star here- instead of being jalapeno-flavored, it had actual slices of jalapenos in it. Great place to run in and grab a bagel. It was pretty crowded on a Sunday morning as far as table service went, but I was in and out with my bagel in about 5 minutes.

Total price: $3.09.

Posted at 12:55pm and tagged with: bagel palace, toco hills, atlanta,.